What are private label cosmetics?
Silicone is one of the most widely used cosmetics ingredients, and also one of the most controversial. With ‘clean’ beauty being more sought after by consumers, many cosmetics brands now proudly market their products as ‘silicone-free’. But is this just a marketing gimmick or should silicones really be avoided?
In this article, we discuss some of the controversy surrounding the use of silicones in cosmetics, including arguments against using them as well as the benefits they offer.
What are silicones?
Silicones are semi-liquid substances derived from silica, a naturally occurring mineral found in sand. It takes a heavy chemical process to turn silica into silicones, which is why they’re considered a synthetic ingredient even though they’re naturally derived.
In cosmetics, silicones are known for giving a silky smooth look and feel to hair and skin. Medically, silicones have occlusive properties which create an air and water-resistant barrier over the skin surface. This makes them a useful ingredient for wound healing and improving scars.
Types of silicones used in cosmetics
The most commonly used silicones in cosmetics include cyclomethicone, dimethicones, and silanols (dimethiconol) and their derivatives. Generally, any ingredient that ends in -cone, -conol, or -siloxane is a silicone.
This is a short summary of the different types of silicones found in cosmetic products:
- Cyclomethicones: These silicones evaporate faster than water and ethanol, making them ideal for use in antiperspirants and hair conditioners as they prevent product buildup.
- Dimethicones: These are silicone polymers, also known as silicone fluids. They work as emulsifiers and are found in many cosmetics products, from shampoo to moisturisers, primers, and sunscreens.
- Silanols: These are water soluble ingredients that are often used in leave-in hair conditioners to provide a sleek shine that can easily be washed off.
Why silicones are controversial in cosmetics
So, why don’t people like using silicone in cosmetic formulas? Below are a few arguments against the use of silicones.
They have no real benefit
Besides their wound healing and scar reduction benefits, silicones offer no real advantage to the hair or skin. Their primary use in cosmetic formulations is to make skin and hair look and feel soft and silky, but they don’t actually contribute to any lasting effects. Once you wash the product away, the effect is gone, too.
They can clog pores
One of the primary arguments against silicones - and largely a myth - is that silicones clog pores. The truth is, silicones are a hydrophobic material, which means they repel water. This makes them difficult to wash off. If you don’t cleanse properly after using silicone-based products, they can clog your pores over time, but silicones themselves don’t clog pores.
They can cause breakouts
This is another common silicone myth. The occlusive nature of silicones means they create a barrier over the skin. This helps keep out environmental aggressors, which is why they’re so great for wound healing. But at the same time, the barrier can lock in oil, dirt, and dead skin cells. For people who already have oily, acne-prone skin, silicone can contribute to these issues. However it’s not silicone itself that causes breakouts.
They can affect proper layering of skincare products
This argument states that people with multi-step skincare routines should avoid silicone products because anything applied after a silicone-based product won’t be able to penetrate its barrier. However, that’s not entirely true.
While silicones do create a barrier, the barrier is considered ‘breathable’, which means products can still penetrate the silicone layer. The other point to make here is that silicone products can actually be useful as the final step of a routine, helping to lock in moisture and prevent products from washing away.
Silicones are a filler ingredient
Fans of simplistic beauty may consider silicone to be an unnecessary filler ingredient. This is because it’s not one of the active ingredients of a cosmetic formula and offers no substantial value to the user beyond enhancing spreadability and texture.
They're not eco-friendly
Silicones are a bioaccumulative product, which means that they may potentially contribute to the buildup of wastes in oceans and waterways. While this is a great reason for eco-friendly cosmetics brands to avoid silicones, it’s a point that’s up for debate. According to Michelle Wong, a cosmetic specialist with a PhD in chemistry, silicones are not biodegradable but they are degradable. Eventually, they turn back into silica (sand), carbon dioxide and water.
The benefits of using silicones in cosmetic products
The reason why silicones are one of the most popular ingredients in the cosmetic industry is because they actually offer numerous benefits to beauty products. The following are just some examples:
Enhance texture
To put it simply, silicones make skin and hair look and feel lustrously soft and silky. They fill in visible lines and pores of the skin and can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The effect may not be permanent, but it looks great while it’s there.
Lock in moisture
Because of its water repellent and occlusive properties, silicone can be an excellent way to lock in moisture when applied after other products.
Wound healing
One of the primary benefits of silicone gels is their ability to heal wounds and reduce scars. This is something that’s well acknowledged and not really up for debate.
Improve spreadability and blending
Silicones have the ability to really improve the consistency of a cosmetic product. They can add slip to make products more spreadable and easier to apply, which is why they’re so popular in moisturisers and serums.
Hypoallergenic and non-reactive
It’s very rare for someone to suffer from silicone allergies and they’re generally considered to be an extremely safe ingredient to use on the hair and skin. In the cosmetics industry, it’s rare to find an ingredient so beneficial that also doesn’t pose any risks.
Oil-free moisturiser ingredient
For people who are after the appearance of hydrated skin (rather than active ingredients that actually hydrate the skin), silicones offer an excellent alternative to oil-based moisturisers. They offer the same dewy, silky smooth look without the risk of clogging pores and causing breakouts.
Summary: Should you use silicones in cosmetics?
In the end, the choice whether or not to include silicones in your cosmetics products comes down to your brand, the look and feel you’re trying to achieve, and whether or not you can find a viable alternative. There’s no real reason to include them, but there’s also no reason to avoid them entirely. While there is heavy debate over the perceived benefits of using silicones, they certainly don’t pose the same harmful effects as other ingredients like parabens, phthalates, and formaldehydes.
What are private label cosmetics?
- You don’t have ownership of the formulation
- Your product line won’t be unique – there may be many brands selling the exact same product
- You can’t change the formulation or choose what it looks or feels like
- Customers can feel betrayed if they find out your product is not unique so you have to align this kind of product launch with your brand values and buyer personas
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